Home Therapy Instructions

1. Vitamin C

2. Slippery Elm

3. Herbal Mouth Rinse

4. Instructions on Home “Enema”

5. Sub Q Instructions

6. Instructions for using Sarcoma (Tumour) Topical Cream

Easy self-help natural therapies for all species

This information page covers:

How to use “Vitamin C” as a natural therapy
*Healing and detox of snake and tick and spider bite poisons and viruses, disease conditions.

How to use “Slippery Elm Powder”
*Used for instant healing and relief of – internal ulcers, stopping diarrhoea,
nutritional liquid supplement.

How to give your dog “Oral Mouth Rinse”
(teeth, gum infection relief)
*Healing and relief from bacteria and other teeth and gum infections, smelly breath.

How to give a home-prepared “Enema”
(constipated – blocked up, hard stools)
*Sometimes your cat maybe so blocked with dry, hard, impacted stools that not even homeopathic remedies can shift it, so we sometimes may need to help our animals by giving an Enema.

How to give home “Sub Q Fluids”
(plain saline solution dribbled under the skin)
*A natural and effective method of detoxing kidney patients, or for FIP, Distemper, Parvo or Cancer pets. Can also be used for for pets who are not eating very well etc.

How to use “Cansema Black Salve Cream – tumour removal”

How to make and give homeopathic “Isode” Therapy
While adding the regular use of (homeopathic) Isodes, along with your practitioner’s suggested remedies could lead surprising results in the treatment of infectious diseases for animals (and humans). i.e. Feline Leukaemia, Feline AIDS, FIP etc .. any blood disease.

1. Vitamin C

For General Health and prevention of disease.
Add a teaspoon to daily meals of pure calcium ascorbate powder.


You will need:

(1) An oral syringe (without the needle). Available from chemists / pharmacies.
(2) A packet of pure “Calcium Ascorbate” Vitamin C crystals (white powder)
Available from all good HEALTH FOOD STORES


Injectable vitamin C (available from stock feed stores)
(injectable ascorbic acid vitamin C given into the vein – very, very slowly)


Add a bottle of the vitamin C solution into a IV Bag of plain saline solution of water.
This method is on an IV drip – dripped in very slowly through the vein.
(for approx. hour which is best, as this is a slow infusion, which is better for the pet)

MOST IMPORTANT: There is less chance of a fast and complete recovery if your animal or pet does not get enough Vitamin C at the time of the emergency or illness – it must be given frequently and throughout the day. Same applies to oral dosing of vitamin C. You cannot overdose or cause any side affects – only save your pet, a farm animal or even a human life.


Vitamin C Animal Dosing – URGENT 
Example: cancer, poisonings, possible snake bites, spider or tick bites, distemper, parvo, feline distemper, pneumonia, fading puppy or kitten or other infant animal syndrome, etc.

Cat, small dog, or other small species: Mix 6 teaspoons of crystals or powdered vitamin C in 1 cup of warm filtered water and give approx. 5mls – 10mls orally – every 15 minutes for up to 4 hours, (approx 20 oral doses), then reduce to every 3 hours on improvement. Stop when back to normal self.

DOG, horse, cow, sheep, goat etc: mix 8 teaspoons of powder in 1 cup of warm filtered water and give 20ml every 15 minutes for up to 4 hours. Reduce frequency on improvement to every couple of hours, then stop when back to normal.

OR For Farmers or a Veternerian can use injetable Vitamin c
*But the method of giving vitamin C orally is just as effective if pet is still conscious.
Can use Injectable vitamin C. (If the Vet is not co-operative, ask him who he could refer you to who can help)
If huge doses of vitamin C are needed, ask the Vet to administer intravenously, in the amount of half a gram (500mg) of injectable sodium ascorbate acid per pound (2.2kg) of body weight. Or dilute in an IV bag of saline solution and drip into vein slowly over 1-2 hours. Along with vitamin E and selenium, add, chelated zinc, the B-complex, pantothenic acid (B5) and vitamin B6. If giving vitamin C intravenously this treatment must be done (3) three times daily without missing a single treatment for a period of (5) five days.

For semi-serious health conditions

  • EXAMPLE: Feline Aids, FIP, Cancer, Parvo, URI, Arthritis,
    NB: When treating Hip Dysplasia – use the “sodium ascorbate” vitamin C instead of calcium asrobate unless you are also providing a calcium balancer Calc Phos 6X homeopathic tissue salt added to dogs water bowl every week. (or daily meals)
  • CAT, toy dog, other small species: mix aprox 3 teaspoons of crystals or powdered vitamin C in 1 cup of warm filtered honey water, goats milk or chicken broth.
    Using the oral syringe: draw up liquid mixture and give approximately 5mls orally (into the side of mouth) every 2 to 4 hours. Syringe slowly and small amounts at a time for easy swallowing. On improvement, you can reduce the frequency per day. Stop when health improves.
  • Med to large DOG, horse, sheep, cow goat etc: mix approx 6 teaspoons of powder in 1 cup of warm filtered honey water, goats milk or chicken broth.
    *Using oral syringe, draw up mixture and give approximately 20ml orally (into side of mouth) every 1 hour for 4 hours. Repeat again in the following day. If no improvement (or loose stools seen) within 2 days, then increase the amount given for each dose. i.e. 40ml every 2 -4 hours for another 2 to 3 days.When improvement is seen (or loose stools) you can then slightly reduce the amount each time and then maintain dosage at that level if needed.


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2. Slippery Elm Powder

Slippery Elm (ulmus fulva) also known as Red Elm, Moose Elm or Indian Elm, is a small tree native to North America. It has been a part of traditional herbal medicine for over 100 years, and was used by both Native Americans and early settlers as a survival food during lean times.

A. FOOD DOSING: Add the suggested amount of mixtures (according to pet size) to meals.

B. ORAL DOSING: If the pet is not eating very well or suffers from acute stomach ulcers, stomach cancer, oral ulcers or any other part of the membrane internally, you can successful use the slippery mixture “orally” via ORAL syringe. You need to give the mixture orally if the pet is not eating, or is in too much pain from an ulcer. Buy an empty medium to large syringe from a pharmacy (without needle) to aid with dosing.

Make up the mixture: Add a little cold water to make a smooth paste. Boil the kettle, then add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of hot water to the paste, stir well and then allow to cool before administering to pet/animal.Amount:

  • SMALL ANIMALS: ½ teaspoon of slippery elm powder into ¼ cup of filtered water.
    (for a cat – instead of using filtered water, use pink salmon juice and some filtered water)
    LARGER ANIMALS: Add 2 teaspoons of slippery elm powder to approx. 1 cup of fluids.

Suggested Dosage:
Cat, toy dog, small species: Gently and slowly squirt into the side of mouth 1ml of the formula, or add a teaspoon of formula to meals.
Larger pets: (i.e dogs, horse, calf, foal, etc) Give 20ml – 50ml or add to some food.

NOTE: If mixture gets too thick or gluggy – continue to add more fluids to keep it a loose runny liquid mix. Slippery Elm heals many conditions quickly and naturally without the need of any further drugs or invasive procedures.

For example: “Acute” diarrhoea / scouring
Give some mixture every couple of hours, stop or reduce frequency when improved.

If “chronic inflammations” or occasional diarrhoea, inflammations.
Can add mixture (with plenty of water) to daily meals. Reduce frequency when bowels back to normal. Relief from stomach or mouth ulcers, stomach cancer, Inflammatory Bowel Syndrome, IBS, intestinal inflammations (e.g. gastritis, etc). Give orally before every meal or add to every meal given.

Nutrition Support.
If giving slippery elm as nutrition and healing food you can also add Vit C and any type of homeopathic or herbal antibiotic or general healing herbs to the mix.

EXAMPLE: Cats / small dogs: Add to slippery elm mixture a approx. ¼ teaspoon Vit C, and approx. 5 drops of herbs or herbal antibiotic (if supplied or suggested to use)

Slippery Elm Powder can be bought at most health food stores or our office can supply to you.
(Slipper Elm powder is 100% natural powder and a highly nutritional supplement.)

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3. Herbal Mouth Rinse

Oral treatment for relief of tooth and gum infections
This herbal infection fighter can be particularly useful for the larger species e.g.
small to large canines when the teeth have infection, sore gums and/or smelly breath.
Use a herb called “Calendula” in liquid form.

Example: Add 60 drops into ½ cup of plain yogurt, add any other vitamins or vital green powder to this if desired.
Then using an oral syringe, give orally 20ml or 40ml twice to three times a day until mouth is much improved. Some dogs like this and will take without using an oral syringe, so try this first.
Dosage can be reduced to once a day as casual support for healthy gums and teeth after improvement has been seen.

Can be bought from health food store or through us.

Request from our office phone 1300 132966 or email: enquiry@hampl.com.au
Calendula herbal liquid extract 25ml $25AUD
Calendula herbal liquid extract or tea (made into liquid)

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4. Instructions on Home “Enema”, the natural way

If your pet is in discomfort, may not have had a bowel motion for
more than 3 days and appears to be uncomfortable at times, you may need to give an enema to provide relief.
However, if your pet is unwell and just has not eaten much, then very little or no stools would be produced anyway, so enema would not be needed.
If your cat or dog is badly constipated, there is certainly no safer nor gentler way to alleviate the problem than giving an enema. This is especially the case for the older animal who may have back muscle weakness or is dehydrated, something that frequently accompanies constipation, particularly in the older cat. This natural method has the bonus of having the effect of allowing the body to absorb much-needed fluids via the intestinal walls.
So, if your pet is constipated and you don’t want to use the Vet chemical treatment or the possible stress of
going off to the Vets, perhaps you would like to try a gentle enema.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• (USA) Fleet enema bottle for a baby (I could only find the larger infant/adult one).
This may be too large a tubing for a cat or toy dog, but would definitely be suitable for medium to large dogs.
If you find a fleet bottle yourself, be sure to throw out the fleet enema fluid inside and give a good rinse with hot water.
(the fluid is a chemical and not suitable for animals)
I used an oral syringe and plastic pipette tubing to extend the syringe tip to use to insert in the anal canal.
(I can supply this tubing and syringe on request or look for an oral feeding syringe at the pharmacy)

• Liquid acidophilus (from the dairy section of the health food store)
Or if you can’t find this, then buy the capsules and make a liquid paste
with water and the powder from 1 capsule.
• liquid chlorophyll ( health store)
• distilled, filtered or filtered water (not mineral water)
• KY Jelly or some type of natural lubricant
• a medium size bowl
• towel

One time I had to do an enema for a dog when on holidays. I only had Aloe Vera powder and used warm water,
and this worked fine as well.

Read through the entire procedure before you begin.
Play with the enema bottle and get used to it. Hold it on its side as you would when giving an enema, and see
how to keep the air bubble at the back of the water so you don’t squirt air into the rectum (harmless, but also
totally ineffective). Practice rolling the bottle up like a toothpaste tube as the water goes out.

Okay – Using a small glass or cup

Measure out 1/8 cup of liquid acidophilus (or water with the powdered acidophilus) and 1/8 cup of chlorophyll, and 1/2 cup of distilled water (or filtered water) not mineral water.

Put this cup or glass into a bowl of hot water until it reaches ‘warm bath’ temperature. This may take a few minutes.

Pour this warm liquid into the fleet bottle, and put the bottle into the same bowl of hot water.
You may need to refresh the hot water in the bowl.

Communicate to your cat or dog what you are going to do is to make him/her
more comfortable.

Coat the tip of the enema with lubricant. You can do this in the bathroom or any small room, ensuring you have a kitty litter tray in the same room. If it is a dog, do it in the bathroom, bath or in the shower.
You can let your cat relax and lay on his side, or if you have an assistant, you can do it
with the pet standing up. Dogs particularly are fine to stand, if you have an assistant. Your assistant will help keep pet still while you work at gently inserting the enema nozzle, and someone else strokes or tickles his back end of the rump.
Slowly insert a short way. Sometimes you will feel the hard stool that is blocking, so
don’t force the enema past this. Gradually empty/squeeze the liquid out, counting to at least sixty to do this, and roll up the bottle as you do it.
This liquid will fill up the small intestines and put pressure on the colon to expel the stool.

Gently remove the enema.

A. Your pet may step into the litter box and pass stool and liquid.

B. Or if not, your pet may walk away, and lay down. No stool or liquid will appear.
This usually means that the pet was dehydrated as well as constipated.
All the liquid was needed by the system and is being absorbed. That is fine.

Let him/her absorb that good mixture of fluids. Wait an hour or two and try again OR you may find he/she may pass
the stool later. If mostly liquid and some stools come out after repeating and hour or two later, this is fine.
(Repeat again the next day if needed – you may find repeated treatment is needed for medium to large dogs).

If constipation continues, be sure to continue to use (for a cat or toy dog) 1/8 of a teaspoon of psyllium powder
and three tablespoons of water in the food twice daily.
(Double the amount of powder and water if medium sized dog)

In addition, remember that your cat was dehydrated and give him one or two servings of chicken soup between meals every day, and perhaps ask a Vet to take a blood test to
check the kidney function, the pancreas, the intestine, or even the thyroid.
Periodic subcutaneous hydration will ease the situation considerably even if kidney
failure is not the problem. … Ask for the sub-Q fluid instructions if needed, especially for kidney patients, who will need this natural home therapy when crisis of kidney failure happens. (Stops eating or losing a lot of weight and drinking water).

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5. Sub Q fluid – Instructions

(subcutaneous fluids i.e. dribbled under the skin)

What you will need. (or what we can supply to you)

1 x 1 litre Bag of “Hartmans” saline solution.
(In the USA they call it Ringer’s Lactate solution)
1 x large needle (approximately 20g 1 TW (0.9mm x 25mm)
2 x 40ml syringes (or 2 x 50ml syringes for dogs)
12 x (or more) OR A BOX of “small 21 gauge” butterfly needles to use for giving fluids under the
skin (2 – 4 weeks supply)

Step 1 Attach a “large needle” to one of the 30ml or 40ml syringes

Step 2 Then gently insert the needle into the fluid bag via the white banded teat.
(this is a one way valve so will not cause leakage)

Step 3 Slowly draw up (fill up) the two syringes with fluids
TIP: do both syringes one after the other.

Step 4 Remove the large needle and put cap on it
(keep in safe place to use again next time)

Step 5 Put both syringes of fluid in microwave for 10 seconds or
(place in a bowl of hot water for 5 minutes)
Test to ensure that the fluids are warm not hot (dribble a little on your inner wrist to test)

Step 5 Place a small 21 gauge butterfly needle onto the syringe and remove any air
bubbles from the syringe. It is now ready for use.

Ready to give warm fluids just under the skin.

This needs to be done in a calm manner and normally only take 5mins total to complete session of fluids.To do this go to the place your pet is sleeping or resting and give the fluids there, so not to disturb them too much. The best site to put the needle and administer the fluids is around an 1 inch either side of the spine in the shoulder area. (never directly over the spine area)

Tip: Place some food in front of your pet, as they may like to eat while you are
giving them fluids. Create a comforting routine.

Step 6 Gently and slowly grab some loose skin with forefinger and thumb and gently
pull up a little to form a tent of skin.

Step 7 Gently but firmly insert the butterfly needle horizontally into the base of the
skin tent (go slow and steady)
The butterfly needle has a bevel at its point – this needs to be facing up
when inserted.

Step 8 Gently apply consistent pressure to the syringe plunger, patting and
reassuring the animal as this is done.
(go slowly so it take about 2-3 mins )

Step 9 Remove the first syringe form the butterfly needle and place the second on
in its place. Proceed as above. (again go slowly so it take about 2-3 mins)

Step 10 Once you have completed the required amount of fluids for your size of
pet, gently pull out the butterfly needle and remove it from the syringe.
(discard the butterfly needle into the bin, these needles get blunt
normally after one use)

You will notice your pet will look forward to the fluids as it makes them feel better.
A pet does not need to be dehydrated to get sub Q fluids, as this fluid therapy also assists with flushing toxins from the kidneys/body. Usually after 10 hours the fluids will have dispersed through body, so continue to repeat daily until wellness is seen. You can then reduce frequency, rather than the amount given at each session. Never give a small animal like a cat more than 100mls per session, per day.

If your pet is in kidney failure, then never give less than 3 x weekly sub Q sessions.

For other conditions such as loss of fluids, (chronic or acute diarrhoea) diseases, FIP, cancers, after surgery, loss of appetite and condition, etc, give once daily then stop when well again.

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6. Instructions for using SARCOMA (Tumour) TOPICAL Cream

1. Sarcoma Black Salve (small white container)

(If black salve paste is a little dry or hard, add some water and mix to make a moist thick paste)

2. Hypcal Healing Cream (120gm jar)

Please read the following instructions through carefully before applying Sarcoma Black Salve treatment.

Do not, in any way, deviate from the following.

Remember, Sarcoma “black salve” will provide results only if animal or human has skin cancer, as opposed to a benign growth. This includes basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas and melanomas of the skin.


Sarcoma black salve (Cansemal) is selective in its action and will only target neoplastic (cancerous) tissue. Healthy tissue will only redden and become mildly irritated when Cansemal is applied. This decision is entirely at the discretion of the user; there is no danger, toxic or otherwise, of applying Sarcoma (Cansemal) to healthy tissue, although doing so is simply a waste of the product.

In addition, if you are targeting more than one growth, do one at a time.


The product has the consistency of a thick, moist paste.

It can easily be self-applied with the fingers and should be spread over the lesion or cancerous tissue in a thin covering, almost lightly “caked.” Wash hands thoroughly before and after applying Sarcoma Black salve (Cansemal). The applied area will start to tingle a little shortly afterwards – anywhere between 5 minutes to 6 hours after the initial application. (In fact, if you feel “nothing” after three to six hours, it is most likely that nothing more will happen: Cansemal has failed to come into direct contact with the cancer.

NOTE: It’s essential that a thick layer is put on and that it stays moist for a minumum of 12 hours, preferably 24 hrs, so it needs to be covered with a non absorbent dressing – tape directly on it. if possible.

Do not to reapply but just wipe off excess pus with H2O2 until the eschar falls off.

If cancer is on the nose of the pet, you will not be able to tape or bandage. Try to make sure it is on for min of 4 hours, reapply a small thick layer if needed (as pet may have wiped it off somehow

After 24 hours, you will want to remove the Cansemal and reapply, repeating this process, until the Cansemal can reach and “grab’” the underlying aberrant growth.)

It is important to only use a small amount on a area of the growth/tumour.

Example: a size of a match stick head. Working on one tumour at a time.

This involves applying a small amount to the edge of the growth, waiting for the sensations to die down as the eschar process begins, and then repeating this process on an adjacent area of skin until the entire area has been covered.

For humans and some pets it is also a good idea to place a bandage over the area, particularly if the forming eschar is on a place on the body that might be subject to being bumped or bruised in the course of daily activity.

It is fine if your pet licks the cream. Another thing to consider is that Cansemal can stain clothing, so for practical, aesthetic, and cleanliness issues, covering the site is a good idea.

For example: .. applied Cansemal and no eschar appeared! … What do I do now?

Cansemal has to come into contact with the target cancer area in order to work. It has transdermal proper-ties (i.e. skin penetrating ability) – a characteristic that is enhanced with the Cansemal – Deep Tissue, as well as our veterinary versions. However, a couple of sin tricks can also speed up the process and/or reduce the number of applications required to “reach” a skirt cancer that is well below the epidermis. Most people don’t need these techniques if the skin cancer is close to the skin surface. We recommend that these “tricks of the trade” only be used if an initial application does not produce results – which turns out to be a minority of cases.


Deep Loufah Wash”- For humans – Many people use a loufah sponge to rigorously wash and prepare the skin before applying Censemal Salve. This serves to remove some of the dead cells in the top layer of the epidenuis (the stratum corneum), so that Cansemal has less tissue through which to travel to get to the underlying cancer.


“Needle Points’- This technique is more effective, but more invasive. It involves taking a sterilized needle and carefully making holes in the skin – about a sixteenth to eighth inch deep, very much as an acupuncturist would – except that the needle is removed as soon as the holes, usually spaced about a quarter-inch apart. Following the creation of the “skin holes,” Cansemal Salve is then (re)applied. We recommend that this technique be used by practitioners and not end users. We also advise that practitioners prep the area by rubbing three drops of Lugol’s into the freshly “pricked” skin before Carsemal is (re)applied, provided that the subject is not diabetic – a clear contraindication, in which case hydrogen peroxide (3-6%) will act as a suitable substitute.)


After 24 hours remove the bandage. Using hydrogen peroxide (1-1202 -3%, available in­most drug stores) and a Q-Tip, very lightly go over the lesion, removing any excess Cansemal and other organic debris (i.e. pus, serous fluid, etc.)

If a full pus formation is not evident or is incomplete, repeat step 2 and leave the new application on for an additional 24 hours before proceeding.

Normally one application is sufficient for small tumors (the size of a pencil eraser), but no more than three applications are required for larger tumors.

There are instances, however, when repeated applications of Cansemal are required because of ‘`accessibility” problems – although this can be limited using the techniques cited in the preceding section.

In order to initiate the escharization process, however, and begin killing the cancer, it is vital that Cansemal be able to penetrate and reach the subject site.

This can take multiple (three or more) applications, though one to two applications is more common.

After the eschar has formed, keep it well protected.

You can apply HYPERICUM CREAM AND CALENDULA CREAM called Hypcal Healing cream (can also get this from healthfood stores) and apply once you reach the deactivation stage. (Although recent reports have been submitted where H30 was used throughout the entire process as a cleaning agent acting to accelerate healing and minimize scaring.)

Normally the bandage can be left on for a period of 10 days: however, in-advanced _cases ­there is considerable “drainage,” that is, a steady emission of pus.

In the sense that Cansemal kills the cancer cells and takes certain leukocytes (defending white blood corpuscles) with it in the process of eliminating the neoplasm, It is a suppurative agent: that is, drainage should not be viewed as abnormal. The range of possible response is very little pus and only one bandage ever required, to a regular change of bandages required in the case of advanced melanomas. Your case will be somewhere in-between.


The eschar itself represents the death of the neoplasmf and this occurs shortly after application. Everything that follows from there is the body’s own reparative responses. From here on out, the body knows exactly what to do and wastes no time doing it. However, to us the days and weeks that follow may seem lengthy. The next stage is the removal of the eschar, or scab. This usually happens within 10 days after initial application, unless the case is advanced and/or cancer(s) cover a large area of the body. As with any scab, let it fall out when it is ready. Do not pull it out prematurely, although you may find that it will eventually be attached with a small thread of skin tissue which can be easily and safely severed. If you remove the eschar premature, you further risk developing scar tissue.


After the eschar comes out, the pit or “decavitation” can look raw and unsightly. Nonetheless, the use of the herbal quick heal – combination of Hypericurn and calendula herbal in cream. Called Hypcal cream available at the Healthfood stores. Over a period of a few months, or in some cases two years, the entire area will be healed with only some “depigmentation” or scar tissue. The result is rarely more unsightly or unaesthetic than if surgery had been chosen instead.

Only in rare conditions does the cancer “come back” to the area applied, unless there is underlying metastasis. To be sure that the area is clear of cancer, many users elect to initiate a second, or even third, application after they get to the “heal over” stage. We take a dim view to doing this indiscriminately because the risk of scarring is increased with each new re-application.

However, with particularly aggressive forms of cancer, such as melanoma, a user may want to weigh the potential advantages of re-application, particularly if the initial cancer is located somewhere on the body that is not usually aesthetically sensitive or viewed in public (i.e. on the back, upper leg, etc.). None of 1–hiss should be taken as a substitute for using some of the better cancer marker tests that are now available from qualified, licensed physicians.

In other words, if you don’t need more than one application, why do it. In other words, once Cansemal has finished its work, there are normally no residual cells from the original neoplasm.

This rule finds more exceptions the-larger the original cancer growth is, the deeper it is beneath the skin, the more instances of skin cancer the subject has experienced, and/or the more extensive a person’s history of skin cancer is or has been. Remember, you may need to repeat this process if the skin cancer is sufficiently extensive such that residual cancer cells have been left behind after you finish your first “cycle.’

(Although, this same admonition would exist if you had your skin cancer surgically removed.) To be on the side of caution, have your health care practitioner check the site to see if there is any remaining cancer. There are excellent antigen marker tests that your physician can utilize to determine if you have a “clean bill of health.”

NOTE: If the salve is dry or a little hard, add some water to it and mix in to make a moist paste again.

The current ingredients In Cansernal are: zinc chloride (CI2Zn), NDGA nordihydrogauaretic acid, trom Larrea mexicata), sanguinaria (Sanguinaria canadensis); galangal root (Alpinia officinarium) or ginger root (Zingiber officinale); graviola leaf (Annona muricata), bitter melon seed (Momordica charantia), and glycerine (used as a humectant, to keep the product moist).

Cansemal Black Salve Treatment can be bought direct from supplier:

“Centreforce Australia”
PO Box 227, GinGin. QLD. 4671. Australia